Showing posts with label Victoria Falls. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Victoria Falls. Show all posts

Friday, April 3, 2009

28 -- The Convoy (Rhodesia: Dec 1976)

 


The following morning, we left the judge’s home for Bulawayo, Wankie and Victoria Falls.  This would be the “dangerous” part of our trip as there was daytime terrorist activity on the road to Victoria Falls.  About 90 minutes outside of Bulawayo, we would travel in “convoy” the rest of the way. Traveling in convoys of vehicles escorted by soldiers reduced the likelihood of a terrorist ambush.  

The “freedom fighters” did not take on well-armed targets.  Rather, they preyed on unarmed and defenseless civilians.  The last thing the “Terrs” wanted was to run into some of the well-trained citizen soldiers of the Rhodesian armed services.

It was really an adventure now!  We roared down the two lane highway, trucks and cars alike at top speed, ignoring posted speed limits.  In front and at the rear of our small convoy of 20 vehicles, were camo-painted trucks with four or five soldiers armed with their Fabrique Nationale 7.62 mm automatic weapons and a 30 caliber machine gun on a mount where the canvas roof had been removed.  

In addition, each car was also armed.  I had my Colt 45 automatic that I had brought from Texas. The other vehicles had an assortment of handguns, locally manufactured Uzi submachine guns and R1 rifles (FNs of South Africa manufacture). 

No Terr in his right mind was going to take on a convoy like this!  Needless to say, we arrived at our hotel in Wankie without incident.

 


The hotel looked like something out of Disneyworld.  It had obviously been built with the tourist trade in mind just before the onset of sanctions in 1964.  It was several miles inside the game preserve and elephants and giraffes would graze a few hundred yards from the balcony in your room.  The 1976 tourist season had not gone well and the events that we had planned such as a camera safari had been cancelled.  The man to lead the safari had been called up by the BSAP to chase some Terrs who had attacked a rural village just outside the preserve.  Since there really wasn’t anything we could do there, we decided to go on to Vic Falls the following morning. 

The next morning another convoy took us to the town of Victoria Falls on the border of Zambia and Rhodesia.  In past decades, Zambia had been known as Northern Rhodesia. 

When the short-lived Federation of Northern Rhodesia (1953-1963), Southern Rhodesia and Nyasaland broke up with independence coming to Northern Rhodesia as Zambia and Nyasaland as Malawi.  Southern Rhodesia became known simply as Rhodesia—still a British colony.  It was not much later that Rhodesia broke away from the British who refused to allow them independence.  In 1964, Rhodesia made its Unilateral Declaration of Independence (UDI).  The United Kingdom would then lead the UN in declaring trade sanctions against the newly formed republic.

The issue that kept Rhodesia in a colonial status was the number of European and African members of any future Rhodesian Parliament.  Rhodesia’s European Prime Minister, Ian Smith, was not opposed to African participation in government.  It was the proportion of European Rhodesians and African Rhodesians and the timetable for power sharing that led to the eventual break between Rhodesia and the UK.

After UDI, Smith would harden his stance against African participation, often saying that African rule would come “over my dead body.”  But, to me as a newly-minted conservative American, steeped in the soaring idealism of Texas-style Christianity propounded by RB Thieme, Rhodesia’s UDI was analogous to our own American Declaration in 1776.  And, I saw the issue of African power analogous to our own history with Native Americans.  Indeed, the Rhodesians were much more progressively minded toward Africans than we had ever been toward Native Americans.

For all its detractors, the Rhodesian Army was composed of Europeans and Africans alike, united against a common Communist foe—the terrorist forces under Mugabe, Sithole and Nkomo.  In the short time I had been in Rhodesia, I had learned that the volunteer regular army was composed of about 3000 Europeans.  There were thousands more African volunteers in the BSAP and the Rhodesian African Rifles (RAR).  This “all African” force of volunteers was more feared than any other unit of the Rhodesian Army.  These were highly motivated African soldiers who were determined to drive the terrorists out of their country.  Just after our arrival in Rhodesia, the RAR commissioned its first African officers. 

There were also the Selous Scouts, an elite all volunteer mixed race unit.   A Selous Scouts force of 70 men had just carried out a raid in Nyadzonya, Mozambique where they had killed a thousand terrorists in less than an hour with no loss of life to themselves.  [Many years later, Gen Edgar Tekere who was Mugabe’s defeated commander of these forces, said that Mugabe was so disheartened by this series of raids that he had considered giving up the armed struggle.  This explicit interview contains his interview along with Lt Col Reid Daley, the Scouts’ commander.]  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vs7V_IBQcDg  3/3/26 Note:  Unfortunately, this video this is no longer available on YouTube.

The “territorial” forces were similar to what our American National Guard used to be before the Bush administration re-tasked them as frontline combat troops.  The Territorial Regiments were composed of draftees.  These draftees were all white Rhodesians.  Not a single African was ever conscripted into the Rhodesian Army.  [By the end of 1977, as many as 100 Africans were volunteering for duty with the Security Forces every day.]  

The only African “conscripts” were those who were stolen from their villages and force-marched across the border to Mozambique and Zambia.  These schoolboys were co-opted as terrorists, indoctrinated and trained by Chinese, Soviet and North Korean soldiers.  Then they were set loose on their own people to rape, pillage and plunder.

The only analogy to these terrorists in American history at the time was to be found in our recent experience with the Viet Cong.  In fact, the similarities were striking between the training and tactics of the Viet Cong and the Mugabe/Sithole/Nkomo “freedom fighters.”

Since I had missed my chance to fight the Communist Viet Cong, it made sense to me that fighting these African terrorists was really the same enemy—just a different continent.


Thursday, April 2, 2009

27 -- Tea with the Judge (Rhodesia: Dec 1976)

Our travel plans would take us from Salisbury, southwest to Bulawayo and northwest to Victoria Falls.  After visiting the Wankie game preserve and Vic Falls, we planned to head back east to Fort Victoria and the nearby Zimbabwe Ruins, then to the mountains of Umtali overlooking Mozambique.

We had some acquaintances in Gatooma, just a few hours by car from Salisbury.  We had met Eugene and Thora Wiseman at The Jameson Hotel after phoning him our second day in Rhodesia.  Eugene was a Thieme “taper” who pastored the Gatooma Baptist Church.  Roy Hurst had given us his name as well as the name of several other “tapers” including some Salisbury residents and the Rhodesian Chaplain General.  Of course, it had also been Roy who had put us in touch with RSM Harry Springer and Maj Nick Lamprecht.

We had also met a Rhodesian who was staying at the Jameson before starting his regular period of national service.  All males served in the military from 18 to 55 whether it was the Army, Air Force or BSAP (British South African Police).  If I remember correctly, this man was serving in the BSAP and would be patrolling the bush somewhere to the northeast near the Mozambique border.  We were welcomed by Rhodesians such as this.  We were Americans who were coming to help them in their struggle to maintain their freedom.  He absolutely insisted that we stay with his father, a judge on the Rhodesian High Court, when we visited Bulawayo. 

So, after stopping for tea in Gatooma with the Wisemans,  we pushed on to Bulawayo for the night.  Salisbury to Bulawayo was about a five-hour drive and there really wasn’t much to see from a tourist perspective in between.  Of course, we were just fascinated to be “in” Africa and traveling safely down the main highway to the old capital of Rhodesia, Bulawayo.  Of course, part of the excitement was that there was supposed to be a war going on!  But, as long as we confined our travel to daylight hours, we were advised that we shouldn’t be concerned traveling to Bulawayo.

We saw quite a few more army vehicles than we had seen in Salisbury.  Mostly, we saw Land Rovers and transport trucks—all painted in a camouflage pattern of green, brown and pale yellow.  Occasionally, we would see a truck with 15-20 soldiers in the back, but it didn’t seem any different than what you would expect to see in the US when you were near a military base.

[We had seen some strange looking vehicles in Salisbury zipping around some of the downtown streets.  These were armored vehicles, some with small guns poking through the armor plate.  We had chased a couple of these vehicles in our rental car as we tried to get some snapshots, but were waved off by the soldiers.  Some months later, I found out that these were vehicles from the Armor Corps out training drivers.  In a few months I myself would be driving a camouflaged 2.5 ton Mercedes Unimog all over Salisbury as part of my combat-driver training.]

We arrived at the judge’s home just before sunset.  Not surprisingly, he was a very formal gentleman.  He seemed stiff and humorless, resembling the caricature that I imagined for someone from Britain. 

He greeted us with hot tea as his house servant took our bags to our room.  It was not my first experience with hot tea, but it was my first formal tea!   Another servant, dressed in white with a pressed white cloth over his arm, served us tea in the “drawing room” where we were seated in stiff-backed chairs.  The tea service was fine china and the tiny cups with their petite handles were hard for me to handle in my large American hands.  As I struggled with my grip on the handle and balancing the saucer on my thigh, I found out just how hot the tea was!  The handle twisted between my fingers and poured into my lap so as to ruin anyone’s honeymoon! 

This was not the first time I had poured hot liquid in my own lap.  I had done the same with very hot coffee a few years before at Steak and Eggs in Houston.  That episode resulted in some blistering.  This time, I knew what to do—I grabbed a pitcher of cold water and poured it in my lap.  A change of clothes later I was none the worse except for the embarrassment.

Later that evening, we ate a moussaka casserole prepared by his cook from eggplant grown in his own garden.  We had never had moussaka before, so thought of it as an African recipe for years until we were exposed to Greek cooking.  After dinner, we retired for some sherry and conversation.  Of course, we were full of questions about the war, politics, life under sanctions, and most of all, what it was like for him growing up as a white person in Africa.

He had grown up on a farm to the northeast near Melsetter.  It was now a hotbed of terrorist insurgent activity.  He learned the local African language from servants and his childhood playmates who were mostly the sons of the African workers employed on his father’s farm. 

This is probably a good place to introduce you, the reader, to some terminology that will make telling the rest of this story a little easier:

When I write of the local black population, I will use the common term, “African.”  Even though most Rhodesian whites were born and raised in Africa, they are commonly called “Europeans.”  Even Americans are called “Europeans.”  Those of mixed race, were called “Coloureds” and those from the Indian subcontinent are called “Asians.”  This terminology continues to this day.  Rhodesian Europeans had pejorative names for others as I am sure the Africans had for the Europeans, but there is no disrespect in the terms African, European or Asian.

The judge explained all of this to us and gave us our first good history lesson about Rhodesia and southern Africa.  We retired to our room for the evening with plans to leave for Wankie the next morning.